Scaffold ladder

The short ladder that links the lifts through hatch decks inside the scaffold, so people climb within the side protection instead of outside it.

Also called: lift ladder, internal ladder, hatch ladder, ladder access, ladder bay

A scaffold is only as good as its access. Anyone who climbs a leaning ladder every morning or clambers up the frames from lift to lift risks exactly the fall the scaffold is meant to prevent. That is why the ladder bay is part of almost every facade scaffold: in one bay the lifts get decks with a hatch, and a scaffold ladder links them. People climb inside the scaffold with side protection all round.

For houses and light work it is the usual space-saving solution.

Components and variants

Two parts work together: the hatch and the ladder.

  • Hatch deck with built-in ladder: aluminium frame with plywood or aluminium surface, a flap and a fold-out ladder already attached. Common in bay lengths such as 2.57 or 3.07 m.
  • Separate scaffold ladder: mostly aluminium or steel, its length matched to the usual lift height of about 2 m. It hooks onto the cross profile of the hatch at the top.
  • Internal ladder bay: the ladder bays lie within the scaffold itself.
  • External ladder tower: a separate narrow tower in front of the scaffold, connected to it and tied, typically at 4 m vertical spacing.

The choice depends on load class and bay length. Some instructions allow internal ladder bays only for certain combinations; beyond those the tower goes in front.

Setting up the ladder bay

  1. Choose a bay close to the site entrance.
  2. In the bottom bay lay decks right above the jacks so the first ladder has a firm footing.
  3. Fit the first ladder so the step-on height is no greater than the rung spacing – a small platform makes up any difference.
  4. Lay hatch decks in every lift with the openings staggered, so nobody can fall through several open hatches.
  5. Hook the ladders in at the top and check that they cannot slide.
  6. Cover the gap to the next deck and complete the side protection in the access bay; while the next lift goes up, an advance guard rail protects there first.
  7. Tie the frames at the ladder bay as the instructions say – often more densely than elsewhere.

On dismantling the ladder bay comes out last; it is the way down.

Typical mistakes

  • Open hatches: an open flap is a trap for a colleague working backwards. Open it only to climb through.
  • Hands full: tools go in a belt or up on a rope, never in the hand on the ladder.
  • Ladder bay on brackets: hatches belong in the main bay, never on an inside or outside bracket.
  • Ladder where a stair is due: for great heights or heavy traffic a stair tower is much safer and more comfortable.

Buying used ladders and hatch decks

Bent stiles, missing or loose rungs and worn hooks make a ladder unusable. Check hatch hinges, ladder guides and the deck surface; plywood with swollen edges should be renewed. Help on choosing between ladder and stair is in access to the scaffold; used parts are under ladders and stairs.

Frequently asked questions

Do the hatches in a ladder bay have to be staggered?
Yes. Hatches are staggered so nobody can fall through several lifts, and they stay closed except while someone climbs through.
How long is a scaffold ladder?
It is usually matched to a lift height of about 2 m and hooked onto the hatch at the top. On some systems it is built into the hatch deck.
Ladder or stair tower – which is better?
The ladder bay saves space and is enough for smaller scaffolds. For great heights, frequent use or carrying material, a stair tower is the safer choice.

Looking for scaffolding or formwork? Our team advises you free of charge and sends you a quotation including freight to your site.